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She lives on the second floor of a slum house in Mumbai, up a narrow metal ladder, like on a ship. In Hinduism, hijras were once revered as demigods. She seemed scared to talk about her. Not all transgender people are hijras or members of guru families. She must give a portion of all the money she makes to her guru. They dance at temples. She even keeps a stack of receipt books, heaped by her TV, so anyone making a donation to a hijra in her neighborhood can keep a record of it. She wears dark saris, chipped purple nail polish, a gold ring in her left nostril and her hair down the middle of her back. When I had my sex change, we had to do it ourselves. Chandini made no bones about how it worked among her 15 chelas. Do they do sex work? She went through part of a sex reassignment surgery last year: A decade and a half later, Radhika is still a sex worker.
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Image Mita, 23, applies makeup and gets ready to go out on the trains to give blessings to passengers. They have adopted each other as sisters. Different from Radhika and most hijras, who spend their years in small, airless shanties with the smell of feces wafting through cracks in the walls, this guru, who calls herself Chandini, rents a relatively large apartment.
A few years ago, India officially recognized transgender as a third gender , eligible for welfare and other government benefits. The gurus are hijras as well, usually in their 40s or 50s. She lives on the second floor of a slum house in Mumbai, up a narrow metal ladder, like on a ship.